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VIDEO: An Exclusive Early Look At The 40th Anniversary Royal Oak Exhibition In NYC, Opening Today

The 40th anniversay of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak exhibition officially opens to the public today and runs through this saturday.  The exhibition will include 100 timepieces, many of which coming into public viewing for the very first time.  Included in these lots will be the very first Royal Oak “A-Series” from 1972, Gerald Genta’s personal Royal Oak, and even Guy Laliberte’s one-off grand complication that made it into space!

On top of all the watch goodness, there is a large modern art component to the exhibit – Dan Holdsworth’s photopraphy of the Vallée de Joux, where Audemars Piguet is based will be on display, alongside artist Davide Quayola’s installations experimenting with photography, geometry, sculpture and audiovisuals; and Sebastian Leon Agneessens’s multi-channel sound installation.

We swung by the Park Avenue armory yesterday to get an exclusive early look at the 40th Anniversary Royal Oak Exhibition as it was being assembled.  Watch the video above to see what you might expect from this incredible exhibition as it kicks off today, as well as hearing from AP North American President and CEO Francois-Henry Bennahmias, and visual designer Sebastian Leon Agneessens. 

Gold White Ceramic Round Chrono

Polished stainless steel chrono watch with a gold-tone IP and white enamel plating. Round face features glossy white colored dial, and clear crystals at all hours. Case size 38MM. Case…

Polished stainless steel chrono watch with a gold-tone IP and white enamel plating. Round face features glossy white colored dial, and clear crystals at all hours. Case size 38MM. Case thickness 12.7MM.

Thomas Prescher Nemo Sailor Watch

Getting back to the Nemo Sailor it features a beautiful copper/bronze/steel case that is intended to age and develop a patina over time.nice!   The case, the dial and even the hands are fabricated entirely in-house and finished to the highest standard.  The overall design is inspired by a ships porthole; I think the small blued hands, screws on the bezel and the circular-grained dial finish (done by hand) add very nicely to overall aesthetic which is decidedly minimal.  Prescher notes that even the case lugs are hand-finished with anglage at the contact points (difficult to see in the photos).

Thomas Prescher Nemo Sailor Watch

44mm bronze/copper/steel case, lavishly finished automatic mechanical ETA 2824 (custom movement upon request), strap of choice

The Sailor base-movement is the well-tested and reliable ETA 2824, which is then lavishly finished by hand. Inspired by an Art Nouveau stained-glass window, the movement is fitted with a splendidly shaped rotor.  Of course, as a specialist in custom tailored luxury, Thomas Prescher will make the watch in a custom fitted movement of your choice if so desired.

A HODINKEE Reader Recounts His Visit To Piaget: Say Hello To Our Contest Winner!

My wife and I would like to thank Piaget and HODINKEE for our trip to Switzerland to visit Piaget, and to see its manufacture in La Cote aux Fees, and its headquarters in Geneva.

Here are a few of my thoughts:

Proud of being Piaget and taking pride in one’s work: When I was listening to Yves Bornard (who’s been with the company for 40+ years!) talk about the history of Piaget I could see his glowing pride. When the watchmakers showed us what they are working on, I too could see their pride in being Piaget, and how proud they are with their work. Yves takes out an employee log book from the 1940s. It is old, and its pages are yellow, and falling apart. How many companies can show visitors something like that today?

Bao and Yves in discussionWhat it means to be true manufacture. One of the things that stuck with me, and help me get a clearer picture of what it means to be a manufacture was Yves explaining the importance of having the movements assembled up in the Jura Mountains where it is calm, tranquil, and peaceful. He says this atmosphere is for the watchmaker’s mentality, and helps them be successful. He states you cannot have a watchmaker working in the middle of Geneva, because when that watchmaker goes to lunch and gets stuck in heavy traffic, it will impact his mentality.

I quickly understood what he meant when we went around and saw how the watchmakers assembled small, individual components by hand using a tweezers, with the aid of a magnifying loupe. The work requires a lot of precision, a good eye and a steady hand. One cannot be frazzled. The trip is an hour from Geneva by car, and it takes us high up the Jura Mountains.

There are many switchbacks and we pass small villages, and there are rows of pine trees in the backdrop. It’s very tranquil and quiet. There is not much action, and it is a sharp contrast to hectic Geneva, but I like it up there a lot!

Transparency and sending raw metal shaping up to be true mechanical art: I really appreciate Piaget for being so transparent in its manufacturing process from the work on its movement, and how everything is ultimately assembled in Geneva. This transparency really helped me see their movement and watches as art and a mechanical marvel. To see a raw material, such as a long bar of gold shape up and become a hand woven gold bracelet with bead-detailing is truly amazing, or a piece of brass morphing into a beautiful movement plate. I was fascinated when I saw a young lady add a parlage pattern to small mini-rotor, and saw the stark contrast in areas that had completed decoration versus the areas that were still in the raw. And then there was the shy watchmaker who proudly showed us a tool that he had to create so the tourbillion hands in the Polo Tourbillon Relatif can be polished.

Most of this work is done by hand, and at first it seems very rudimentary, especially when there are probably machines that can do the same work today quicker. But then to see the final completed piece in its true glory. It is definitely beautiful, and I challenge anyone to spot flaws in the work.

Bao taking a closer inspectionLast thoughts: I really like Piaget, I always have. Its watches are beautiful and its movements have a rich history behind them. It epitomizes what it means to be a true watch manufacture. Piaget’s ultra slims are drop dead gorgeous and are a mechanical marvel. Are they expensive? Oh yes! But if you’re among the lucky few that can afford this luxury market-segment, I encourage you to book a trip to Geneva and visit Piaget. You’ll see how the watch you admire so fondly is made, and the level of craftsmanship will leave you amazed, and its price justified…  you’ll most likely leave with a Piaget on your wrist.

Thank you again to both Piaget and HODINKEE for allowing both my wife and I this truly incredible, once-in-a-lifetime experience!

Bao and wife with Piaget CEO, Philippe Leopold-Metzger

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