Charlie Chaplin’s Cartier on James

We love old collectors items that tell a rich history here on James. Moreover, were quite fond of old-timey show biz memorabilia (the last gem we covered was the insanely beautiful Rolls-Royce that belonged to George Formby back this summer), and this ones a real looker.  Its a beautiful ladies Cartier Bagnoire that was given by Charlie Chaplin to his wife Oona, 37 years his junior and daughter of Eugene ONeill for trivia fans, and has been described as the watch she preferred wearing. Ladies watches dont get too much coverage here on the JamesList blog, but this time, we couldnt resist.

Pick up this piece of history right here on James, Xupes is asking £10,000.

Hands-On With The Jaeger-LeCoultre Duomètre à Quantième Lunaire 40.5 (Live Pics + Video)

Click to enlargeThis could be one of my favorite pieces from SIHH – here’s why:

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Duomètre à Quantième Lunaire 40.5, in spite of its long and arduous name (for those of us with an English tongue) is a very serious watch.  It is, what many would call, a piece of haute horlogerie.  Now this terms gets thrown around a lot, in fact the “HH” in “SIHH” stands for haute horlogerie and I can tell you with great certainty that not all watches shown at the salon warrant such a title.  The new Duometre does, however.

You see, this watch uses a movement, the JLC Caliber 381, that employs a double-wing concept, meaning it has two unique energy sources.  The first, regulated by the escapement and the balance, is entirely dedicated to the precise measurement of the passing of time; whereas the second source of energy is devoted to the display of the functions: hours, minutes, seconds, calendar and moon phases for both hemispheres.  The two are then regulated against each other via a jumping seconds hand that measures 1/6th of a second.  To see this watch in action is just a thrill, so luckily we’ve filmed it for you below:

Now the Caliber 381 isn’t anything new for this year, the original Duometre was released a few years and it has been praised by watch enthusiasts and collectors the world over.  But, what makes this year’s Duometre so attractive to me is the combination of such an impressive movement in such a wearable size.  The Duometre has never been a large watch, it was 42mm, but now, it is available in 18k pink gold in a smaller 40.5mm case.  

Also, what makes this watch so attractive, besides the incredible movement and great size, is that it is a true piece of haute horlogerie – a watch with an incredibly complicated movement (367 parts!) from a storied brand, and yet doesn’t cost a fortune. Of course, everything is relative and the approximate $37,000 this Duometre will run could buy a lot of things, like for example any one of these seven sport utility vehicles, but if you compare this watch to most other high-end, true haute horlogerie pieces, it’s a relative bargain.

Sphere watch rotates the time in 3D

Peter says: Traditional wrist watches tend to tell the time in a very 2D format, I am fascinated by the idea of using 3D to tell the time. I decided to use a sphere as it is about as 3D as it gets, also a sphere is omni-directional which lends it self to telling the time using more than one axis.

I have decided to show 2 different time display methods using the sphere.

The white watch sphere rotates in two directions: the minutes are displayed using the Y axis like a conventional analogue watch, the hours by the x axis. Where the hours meet the bezel (which has the minute markers on it) is the time.

The black watch sphere rotates in one direction using the x axis to display the hours, the bezel rotates for the minutes, where the hours meets the bezel is the time.

This design tells the time in a unique manner and will appeal to unique people. The method is unusual but instantly recognisable and readable. The 3D element should appeal to quirky people who like products that are a little different.

This design literally stands out because of the 3D element. The sphere could be powered by a conventional analogue movement using a simple gearbox or by using two analogue movements, one for minutes and one for hours. Thus making the principle manufacturable.

There is an Animation of the watch in action. [5MB]

Sphere watch rotates the time in 3D, 3.4 out of 5 based on 46 ratings

Bremont ALT1-WT World Time Watch

For all intents and purpose this new Bremont ALT1-WT is the commercial version of the exclusive Bremont C-17 Globemaster watch that I discussed here. While the C-17 (C17) Globemaster was not to be available for public purchase, the ALT1-WT will be. The watch takes the brand’s signature aviator style and adds a world time bezel and GMT indicator into the mix of complications. It makes for a very good travel watch and I am glad that Bremont decided to offer a version of the Globemaster for “everyone else.”

The ALT1-WT will be positioned as one of Bremont’s new for 2012 watch models. But there will be other models as well. The differences between this model and the Globemaster are minor – being mostly the caseback and dial changes as far as I can tell. Bremont makes it clear that this watch is an adoption of the C-17 Globemaster. The case done with specially hardened steel and is 43mm wide. The most recognizable element is the rotating city ring that is to be used in conjunction with the 24 hour hand. This gives you the time all around the world at a glance and the design here is well-done. Bremont uses their Roto-Click system for the inner rotating bezel that offers distinct positions for the bezel turns. It is a nicely satisfying little detail. You can tell that the city ring is different on this model compared to the Globemaster (that has airport indicators).

You can see that the “globe” motif on the watch face is also carried over from the Globemaster – this is likely to become a signature design feature of the watch. I like that the hour markers are prominent and applied, and that the hands and hour markers are all richly coated with lume. You also have rather good proportions in all the hands. I am a bit concerned that because the chronograph seconds hand and GMT hand have arrow tips they might be easily confused when wanting to read the second time zone at a glance. As is the case with most Bremont watches the domed sapphire crystal will be richly AR coated.

Inside the watch is the Bremont caliber BE-54AE automatic movement that is a base ETA with a module that has been finely finished and regulated by Bremont. They always offer really nice movement decoration, and this one again will be visible through the sapphire caseback window. The movement will further be a COSC certified Chronometer. Going back to the dial I still really like the shape of the date window (it is dated from the HUD display on C-17 planes).

In addition to this white dialed version Bremont will offer the ALT1-WT with a blue or black dial. It comes on a leather strap (with possibly a metal bracelet option) and each watch will also come with a NATO style strap and changing tool. Price will be $5,695 for this good looking new Bremont timepiece.